Making a Cedar Chest

Of all woodworking projects, the popularity of the cedar chest has definitely stood the test of time.  It's a piece of furniture that is usually around for many years, often times passed down from generation to generation.  There are also many different styles, shapes and sizes of cedar chests. Some are made with a different material and then have a thin layer of cedar applied to the inside, while others are made of solid cedar boards.  Some are made with the boards joined together vertically, while others are horizontal.  There's so many options that I'm sure there is one to match your personal style and woodworking experience.  Hopefully, this post is easy to follow and makes it helpful for you to build a cedar chest yourself.


Tools Needed:

• Tape Measure
• Table Saw
• Miter Saw
• Jointer
• Biscuit Cutter
• Drill/ Driver
• Bar Clamps 
• Palm Sander
• KREG Pocket-Hole Jig (Optional)
• Router (Optional)

**Affiliate links are used on this page.  See my disclosure page for more info on affiliate programs.

Before we get started, let's go over a few details first:

First of all, I used rough-cut cedar boards that were approximately 1-1/4" thick and planed them down to 1" thick with a portable planer.  If you prefer, you can buy lumber that is already planed from your local lumber yard.  If you do, make sure to adjust your measurements to account for the different thickness.  

Also, the particular chest that I've built for this post is 18" tall x 26" long x 18" wide.  The method used here will consist of solid cedar boards.  Each board's width varies from 3" to 6".  The boards will be joined together edge to edge, so you'll need enough boards to account for the lengths of each panel of the chest, plus a little extra. 

Now, let's begin........

The first step for me (after I had all the boards planed) was to Lay out the boards for each panel of the chest.  There are six panels: 

1. Front- measures 26" L x 16" T
2. Back- measures 26" L x 16" T
3. Left side- measures 16" L x 16" T
4. Right side- measures 16" L x 16" T
5. Bottom- measures 24" L x 16" W
6. Top- measures 26-1/4" L x 18-1/4" W

 For example, the Front panel should consist of enough boards approximately 17" long (16" + a little extra) that, when put together edge to edge, will add up to approximately 27" (26" + a little extra).  The extra is there to allow us to trim the panels down to exact size on the table saw when ready.  

Now that all the boards are laid out and you enough for each panel, it's a good idea to Run them through the Jointer.  The jointer is a power tool that operates very much like a thickness planer, except that it cuts the edge of a board instead of the face.  The purpose is to ensure that, when the boards are joined together, there are no gaps in between them.

After all the edges have been ran through the jointer, you are ready to Cut slots in the edges of the board with the Biscuit Cutter.  This power tool cuts a slot in the edge of the board.  In turn, a wooden "biscuit" is inserted into the slots and this helps strengthen the joints.  This works in way similar to using wooden dowels.  Before cutting the slots, make a mark about 1-1/2" from the end of the boards, and also every 3-4 inches in between.  It is very important to make marks on every board at the exact same locations.  If you don't, the boards may not fit together.  After all the slots are cut, use some wood glue along the edges and in the slots.  Insert the biscuits in the slots and fit the boards together.

Once the boards are glued, biscuits inserted and fit together, Clamp them together!  I used 3 bar clamps on each panel- one placed at the top, bottom, and in the middle.  Let the clamps remain on the panels for at least 24 hours.  This way the glue has enough time to dry.  Repeat the same process for all six panels.

After waiting 24 hours, release the clamps and you are now ready to Trim the panels to the final size.  Using a Table Saw, you cut these panels to the final measurements mentioned above.  Now you should have six panels.  Before you start the assembly process, this would be a good time to sand all pieces with a Palm Sander.

Now that all panels are trimmed to size and sanded, it's Time to Assemble the pieces.  Let's start by making the bottom.  Turn the bottom panel upside down and attach three 1" x 3" boards across the panel using screws, making sure that the screws do not go all the way through the floor.  This will add strength to the bottom of the chest.  Now you can start attaching the four side panels to the bottom panel using finish nails or screws.  The left and right side panels will fit inside of the front and back panels and will attach with finish nails or Pocket-Hole Screws.  I would suggest that you start by attaching the front to the bottom.  Then attach the left side to the bottom, and then to the front along the corner.  Repeat the process for the other side.  And finally, attach the back to the bottom, and then to both side panels along the corners.  After all sides are in place, attach a 1" x 3" board around the top on the inside of the chest.  This will help tie everything together.  Congratulations, you've now built a box!

The next step is to Trim & Attach the Lid.  Just like you did on the bottom panel, turn the top panel upside down and attach three 1" x 3"  boards across the panel using screws, again making sure that the screws do not go all the way through lid.  After turning the panel back over, trim around the lid with cedar boards, making sure that they are 1/4" wider than the full thickness of the top panel.  For example, if you material is all 1" thick, then your full thickness would be 2".  Therefore, your trim pieces would need to be 2-1/4" wide.  Using a Miter Saw, cut the ends of the trim boards at a 45 degree angle.  Attach them all around the lid, using finish nails, keeping the top edge of the trim flush with the top of the lid.  Now you are ready to attach it.
  There are several different kind of hinges to use on the lid, but I prefer a piano hinge, which is a continuous hinge along the entire length of the lid.  If you can't find the correct length of hinge, you can always buy one that is long and cut it to correct length with a hacksaw.  With the lid laying in place on the chest, attach the hinge to both the lid and the back of the chest with the provided screws.

After the lid is installed and working, it's time to Install Base Trim & Handles.  Using the same size of cedar boards as you used as trim around the lid, trim around the bottom of the chest in the same way.  This gives a nice finished look to the project.  The last item to install is the handles.  You can purchase handles from a hardware store, or do as I did, and make handles out of cedar boards you have left over.  I used 2" wide boards, that were 5" long, and attached them to the sides using screws from the inside of the chest and they worked great!  If you want, you can also Router the edges of the Lid and the Base trim to dress it up a little more.

Now that the cedar chest has been constructed and is working correctly, the final step is to Apply the Finish.  I chose not to use a stain on the chest because I wanted to keep the original color of the cedar.  I did, however, apply three coats of polyurethane.  Polyurethane provides a very durable protective surface to the wood, while also giving it a good shine.  These clear coats come in different finishes, such as satin, semi-gloss, or gloss.  Also, if you apply it with a foam brush, it's easier to control visible brush marks after it's dry.

Cedar Chest.....DONE!

Now obviously this project requires a little time to complete, but it's worth it.  Remember that you don't have to make it too complicated.  There are many different methods of construction out there, but not all are too complicated.  It is definitely possible to build this project, even if you don't have an amazing array of tools, or experienced woodworking abilities.  Hopefully this tutorial will give you the confidence you need, and the know-how to make that cedar chest you've always wanted.

As always, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know what you think.  Good Luck!

How to Build a Deck- Part 2 (Rails)

OK, so now you have the deck framed and the flooring laid.  The next step will be to install the handrails.  Before we talk about how to install them, let's take a look at a few different methods and styles of handrails.

These are just a few methods, but the one we will discuss will the first method.  To build these, you will need the following.

Materials:

• Treated 2"x 4" lumber
• Treated 2"x 6" lumber
• 2"x 2" Treated balusters or decorative spindles
• 3" Exterior screws

Tools:

• Circular Saw or Reciprocating Saw
• Miter Saw
• Tape measure
• Hammer
• Drill
• Level

**Affiliate links are used on this page.  See my disclosure page for more info on affiliate programs.

The first thing you'll need to do is cut the deck posts to the correct length.  The height of the handrails should be 36" from the deck floor.  Since we will be using a 2"x 6" cap on the rails, we will allow for this on the posts by subtracting 1.5" from the height, which leaves you with 34.5".  Measure this on all posts and cut to length with either a Circular Saw or a Reciprocating Saw.

Now that the posts are all cut off at the same level, you can install the top rail and bottom rail all around the perimeter, except in between the posts where the stairs will go (we'll get to that in the next article-  Part 3).  These will be installed horizontally from post to post and attached to the inside edge of the posts, but even with the outside edge using 3" exterior screws.  The top rail should be even or flush with the top of the posts, while the bottom rail will be set at 4" from the floor.  This allows room to sweep debris from the deck onto the ground if needed.
Once the rails are installed, it's time to put in the balusters.  You can either rip 2"x 4"s in half on a table saw to make them into 2"x 2"s or just buy them from the lumber yard or home store already cut to 2"x 2".  The balusters should be all cut to length at 30.5".  You can also cut an angle (30 or 45 degrees) on the bottom of the balusters to make them look more decorative if you like.  These balusters will need to be installed on the outside of the top and bottom rails in a vertical manner using 3" exterior screws.  It's important to make sure that the spacing of the balusters does not exceed 4".
After all of the balusters have been installed, the last step remains, .....the cap.  I like to use a treated 2"x 6" as my cap.  It's wide enough to cover the top edge of the posts, rails, and balusters, and still leave enough to let it have about a 1/4" overlay on each side.  These should be cut to fit all around the rails, again using 3" exterior screws.  Make sure to join the corners of the rail by mitering the top cap at a 45 degree angle.

When your all done, it's a great idea to give the handrail system a good sanding, especially the top cap-  Nobody likes splinters!
Now that you've already learned Part 1- How to Build a Deck (Framing), and now you've been through this Part, be sure to check out the next in the series...How to Build a Deck- Part 3 (Stairs).

Discovering Pocket-Holes!

  If you've done any woodworking at all, you've probably dealt with the decision of whether to use nails or screws.  Of course, there are pros and cons to both methods (as with everything!).  For starters, screws are less apt to back up, while we all know that nails can do this over time.  On the flip side, a screw head is a lot harder to hide, or fill, than a nail head.  I can go on and on over different reasons why you should use screws or nails, but the truth is that there is a reason for both.  Both are great methods of joinery that have been used for years and for very good reason.  In a nutshell, there is a time and application to use screws, and also the same for nails.

  Several years ago I was building kitchen cabinets and I came across, what was new to me, a different method of joinery.  It was called the KREG™ Pocket-Hole System.  This method would give me the holding power that I liked from screws, while at the same time, not having to worry about hiding or filling the screw heads because........they were Hidden!  This was especially beneficial to me on the cabinet project because I could now join all of the face frame parts (stiles & rails) from behind.  Sounds crazy, huh?  It's actually a brilliant idea.  You see, before, I would have to toe-nail a finish nail through the rails, into the stiles.  This could be tricky because, even with the boards clamped together, they could still shift slightly when the nail was driven.  It's just a tedious process, and if you are seeking perfection, it is extremely important!

  This new system works by using a perfectly designed pre-drilling jig that aligns the drill holes at a sharp angle through the work piece from the back side.  After laying out where you want to drill the holes, a step-drill bit (which makes a pilot hole for your screw at the same time) is used.

 Once all holes are drilled, assemble the pieces with wood glue applied in the joints, and clamp together.  Now using the 6" extension driver bit included with the kit, run the "pocket-hole screws" in, making sure not to overtighten them.  After all screws are applied, remove the clamps and what you have now is perfect wood joints that won't back up!  And best of all, you can't see any screws or nails....perfect!

Now since then, I've learned of more applications for this pocket-hole system, such as:  building the actual cabinet boxes (not just the face-frames) and other furniture pieces too.  You can also adjust the pre-drilling jig and use longer pocket-hole screws.  This will let you use this method on 2x material also.  Kreg also makes a shelf pin jig so you can make multiple matching holes for shelf pins.  Really makes this easy!  All of the jigs come in different sizes and multiple price ranges.

**Affiliate links are used on this page.  See my disclosure page for more info on affiliate programs.

The pocket-hole system has been a difference maker for me.  Since I discovered this method, there have been more woodworking projects that I'm confident in doing.  As I said earlier, this system comes in many different sizes.  I started out with the smallest, basic kit and it has worked perfect for almost everything I've done.  They now offer a DIY kit that is like a basic "all-in-one" option that could be a great buy.

I am not being paid by Kreg, and its not necessarily my intention to promote this company, however, I am promoting their product.  I do believe it is a wonderful joinery method that can be beneficial to both the professional and average DIYer at the same time!  I've included a YouTube video about the Kreg DIY kit.  I recommend that you watch the video and hopefully are intrigued to try this method yourself.  Good luck down the road "Doing-It-Yourself"!  As always, please leave me a comment on your thoughts and don't hesitate to add your input!
Cory

Top 10 DIY Power Tools

Whether your a regular handyman or weekend DIYer, not only do you need to know how to perform the job, you need to have the tools to perform the job with.  Some projects require different tools than others and it's very important to have the right tool for the job, so it's safe to say that having a variety of tools on hand is a good idea.  In case you are unsure of which tools to keep around, I've put together a good starter list of tools that will help you be equipped to handle most jobs.  All of these tools can be purchased at your local home improvement stores.  (Pictures are just examples and not necessarily a recommendation of brands).

**Affiliate links are used on this page.  See my disclosure page for more info on affiliate programs.

Cordless Drill

I start this list with the Cordless Drill because it has always been the most used tool that I have.  I use it on almost every job I do.  Every year it seems that there is a better model with more power available.  Now with the arrival of the Lithium-Ion battery, these drills are more powerful and, at the same time, lighter than ever!

Avg. Pricing: $100 - $250

Circular Saw

If you were to poll every handyman out there, you would easily find out that the most common power tool ever used is the Circular Saw.  This was the very first power tool I ever purchased and has hands-down been the most valuable.  If you do much wood cutting at all, you'll definitely get your money's worth.  Now there are also different sizes and options available too.  The most standard circular saw used is the 7-1/4" corded model, but you can also get a cordless, battery-powered model also.  This saw is a little bit smaller but the convenience of being cordless makes it worth it.

Avg. Pricing: $60 -$150

                                        

                                                                        Nail Gun

Now this is the tool that my stubbornness kept me from using the longest.  Years ago, I refused to invest in a nail gun because I felt like it wasn't needed.  I believed that a true carpenter would be able to do everything with the traditional hammer and nails and using a Nail Gun would be "cheating".  Oh how I was wrong!!  It took some shedding my pride and learning to be open-minded to new ideas, but I soon learned that this tool actually made my work better and quicker.  With the nail gun, you no longer need to worry about pre-drilling holes (especially in hardwoods like oak) and they also instantly drive the nails where you want them.  Most nail guns are pneumatic and require the use of an air compressor to power them.  Paslode is a brand that still makes a model that uses CO2 cartridges to power them, so there is no need for the compressor.  There is now even a battery-powered model on the market for an even more convenient option.  Either option you take, the nail gun is an extremely beneficial tool.  Be sure to read my post about Nail Gun Safety !

Avg. Pricing: $75 - $200

Compound Miter Saw

The Compound Miter Saw is very handy when making a lot of angle cuts or multiple cuts of the same length.  If you have very much trim to install, this tool will help you make accurate angle cuts, especially if you installing crown molding.  This saw, not only cuts 0-45 degrees on either side, but the head also  pivots up to 45 degrees to one side, making it possible to make a compound miter cut.  That may be something that's hard for you to imagine needed to do, but if you ever need to, it's hard to replace the ease and accuracy this saw gives you.  The compound miter saw is a great tool, and because of this, I'm sure you'll find yourself using it more than you ever thought.

Avg. Pricing: $100 - $300

Table Saw

Now this tool may be for the more advanced DIYer but the Table Saw is definitely a super tool.  It takes some time getting comfortable using it, but when you do, your DIY ability will greatly increase.  The Table Saw gives so many more wood cutting options than any other tool.  With an adjustable fence, you can rip boards down to whatever width you need.  Also, the blade bevels from 0-45 degrees to give even more cutting options.  This tool will take up a little space in your shop or garage, but with the mobile base option, you can easily move it around as needed.  I definitely recommend this tool, especially if you enjoy woodworking.

Avg. Pricing: $175- up

Router

Now I personally don't use the Router as much as I do other tools, but when I need one...I need one.  Routers can be used for creating edges to wood for joinery or decoration and also to make mortises (or recessing in doors) for hinges.  They can also be used on countertops.  If you are installing a laminate countertop, and using it in sheet form, you will need to trim off the edges to fit the counter.  By using a router with the correct bit, this can be done easily and accurately.  The truth is there are many, many different router bits available to perform many different functions.  Like I said earlier, you may not need a router often, but when you need one...you need one.

Avg. Pricing: $70 - $200

Jigsaw

Jigsaws are perfect tool to make curved cuts in wood.  These tools come in different styles, with some being handle grip and others being barrel grip.  Another capability of the jigsaw is it's orbital motion.  By turning the setting up, the blade not only goes up and down, it moves forward and backward also, making it make cut faster (this should only be done on straight cuts, though).  You can even rotate the base of the saw 0-45 degrees to produce an angle cut.  The jigsaw is a tool that is pretty affordable and anyone should be able to use.

Avg. Pricing: $40 - $150

Reciprocating Saw

The Reciprocating Saw is a tool that has many uses, mostly in a remodeling atmosphere.  If you are in the need of tearing things apart or removing wood, it's hard to replace this tool.  In an earlier post, I wrote about replacing a front door, in which I used a reciprocating saw to remove the old door jamb from the wall.  It can be used to cut wood or metal, depending on which blade you use.  This tool can be purchased in the corded or battery-powered model,  You can also purchase a kit that includes a portable drill, circular saw, reciprocating saw, flashlight, charger and batteries.  You'll spend a little more money, but what you get in return is a universal bag of tools.

Avg. Pricing: $80 - $250

Palm Sander

If you do any kind of woodworking at all, you'll definitely need a sander.  The one I use is an orbital Palm Sander.  With this kind, I have to purchase "hook-n-loop" style sanding pads.  You can also purchase a 1/4 sheet sander and buy your sandpaper in sheet form and cut them into 1/4 sheets, and then just clamp them on the sander.  There will always be certain times when hand sanding is the only option, but for most situations, an electric sander saves you time and effort and is worth the money!

Avg. Pricing: $50 - $100

Tile Saw

Have you ever considered installing ceramic tile on your floors or countertops?  If so, you will need a Tile Saw.  This saw uses a diamond blade that is constantly applied with water to keep it cool while it cuts the tile.  These tools come in an array of sizes and prices.  There is one available for every type of user, from the average DIYer to the commercial contractor.

Avg. Pricing: $90 - up

BONUS****

Airless Paint Sprayer

As a bonus, I decided to add one more tool to this list.  You might think that the Airless Paint Sprayer is for painting contractors only, but I beg to differ!  These can be used for painting the inside or outside of a house.  You can paint fences and many other items.  Also, they can be used to apply wood stain to large areas like fences or siding.  I don't use my sprayer all the time, but when I do, I'm glad I have it.

Avg. Pricing: $100 - up






Now this is by no means a list of required tools to for any DIY project, but more like a compilation of the most useful tools to have in your arsenal.....in my opinion.  While I have all of these tools, I did not purchase them all at once.  Over time, I slowly obtained them as I needed them.  The good thing is that the more tools I have, the more equipped I am to do projects myself!

Please feel free to leave me a comment if you have any questions or just want to add any input.  Your input is always welcome here!

Cory